KORJENEVSKAYA PEAK

The safest way for Korzhenevskaya climbing leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above. To Camp 1, hiking up along small river and crossing the Moskvin Glacier lead to the first bivouac site.

Camp 1 to Camp 2 – The route goes along a rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 2. is located at Morene. In the case of good weather, you can see all the way to the summit from this camp.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 – The route continues up the ice/snow slope and then a long traverse using crampons and ice axes toward the south ridge.

Camp 3 to Camp 4 – Here climbers meet the key of this route — the vertical rock step of about 50 m (164 ft). Then a long and technically easy way up along the snow crest.

Camp 4 to Summit – The route follows the snow crest towards the top. The view of a thousand summits (especially, Communism Peak) from here is great!

Day 1 – Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel
Day 2 – Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina Glacier
Day 3 – Preparation day
Day 4 – Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak to Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 5 – Ascent the summit of Vorobiov Peak at 5690 m (18,668 ft). Descent to BC
Day 6 – Rest day
Day 7 – Preparation day
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,732 ft)
Day 9 – Ascent to 5300 m (17,389 ft). Descent to Base Camp
Day 10 – Rest day
Day 11 – Preparation day
Day 12 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 14 – Descent to Base Camp
Day 15 – Rest day
Day 16 – Rest day
Day 17 – Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 18 – Camp 3 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 19 – Camp 4 at 6400 m (20,997 ft)
Day 20 – Ascent to the summit 7105 m (23,310 ft) and descent to Camp 2 or Camp 3
Day 21 – Descent to BC
Days 22-25 – Reserve days in case of bad weather
Day 26 – Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel
Day 27 – Departure from Dushanbe