KHAN TENGRI PEAK

The West Ridge for Khan Tengri climbing is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50 ft at 6,800 m ( ft) and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40°, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col at 6000m (22,310 ft). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200 m (20,341 ft), 6400 m (20,998 ft) and 6700 m (21,982 ft).

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700 m (21,982 ft). Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20 m (66 ft) which is severe in standard.

Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50 m (164 ft) which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300 m (984 ft) of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Day 1 – Arrival to Almaty/Bishkek, transfer to Base Camp Karkara. Overnight in tent in BC
Day 2 – Rest day or acclimatization hiking near camp
Day 3 – Helicopter flight to Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 4 – Rest and acclimatization
Day 5 – Rest and acclimatization
Day 6 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 4200 m (13,780 ft)
Day 7 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5500 m (18,045 ft)
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5900 m (19,357 ft)
Day 9 – Descent to the Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 10 – Rest day
Day 11 – Rest day
Day 12 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 4200 m (13,780 ft)
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5900 m (19,357 ft)
Day 14 – Ascent to Camp 4 at 6400 m (20,998 ft)
Day 15 – Ascent to the summit 7010 m (22,999 ft) and descent to Camp 2
Day 16 – Descent to the Base Camp
Day 17 – Reserve day
Day 18 – Reserve day
Day 19 – Helicopter flight to Base Camp Karkara and drive to Almaty/Bishkek. Accommodation and overnight in a hotel or guesthouse
Day 20 – Transfer to airport and departure