COMMUNISM PEAK

The safest route for Communism Peak leads from the Walter Glacier bivouac at 4500 m (14,764 ft) and across the Big Pamir Plateau at about 6000 m (19,685 ft), 3 km wide (1.9 mi) by 12 km long (7.5 mi). The ascent of Peak Dunshabe at 6950 m (22,802 ft) is reached by a long and steep ice slope. Hike up Walter Glacier and traverse through the northern slope (4 — 5 hrs).

Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,733 ft) — hiking up by the right side of the moraine of Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier by the ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Further, the route follows by a rock section to the crest (about 6-7 hours).

Camp 2 at 5800 m (19,029 ft) — northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is technically not too difficult, wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The camp is located in mould.

Camp 3 at 6100 m (20,013 ft) — Pamir Big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped-party. Traverse to the left to the top and then descent to Pamir Big Plateau.

Camp 4 at 6700 m (21,982 ft) or 6900 m (22,638 ft) — northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Climbing in roped-party. The ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe at 7000 m (22,966 ft), descend to Camp 4. Ascent to summit with early start. The route climbs up the steep snow slope to the rocks. Above this, there is an exposed part leading to the summit. Back to Camp 4 (8-9 hrs).

Day 1 – Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel
Day 2 – Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina Glacier
Day 3 – Preparation day
Day 4 – Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak to the camp at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 5 – Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak at 5690 m (18,668 ft). Descent to BC
Day 6 – Rest day
Day 7 – Preparation day
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,733 ft)
Day 9 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 10 – Descent to Base Camp
Day 11 – Rest day
Day 12 – Preparation day
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,733 ft)
Day 14 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 15 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 6100 m (20,013 ft)
Day 16 – Ascent to Camp 4 at 6700 m (21,982 ft) or 6900 m (22,638 ft)
Day 17 – Ascent to the summit at 7495 m (24,590 ft) and descent to Camp 4 or Camp 2
Day 18 – Descent to Camp 1 or Camp 2
Day 19 – Descent to Base Camp
Days 20-25 – Reserve days in case of bad weather
Day 26 – Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel
Day 27 – Departure from Dushanbe